By Lesley Mofokeng
Thabo Makhetha-Kwinana has transformed the iconic Basotho blanket into a fashionable item. She has shown all over the world and gained international acclaim. Last week she hosted the Kobo Table Talks, a lekgotla on Basotho blankets that gathered stakeholders around the table in Cape Town for a stimulating discussion on the business of fashion, heritage and the future.
How has your entrepreneurship journey been so far?
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It has been an eye-opening experience, filled with continuous learning and growth. Through this journey, I’ve gained a deeper understanding of myself, my culture, and the business world. Having started in the fashion industry as a young model, I’ve evolved—not only as a designer and entrepreneur but also as a wife, mother, and now as a creative gaining international recognition. Each stage has brought new challenges and lessons, shaping both my brand and personal growth.
What has been the toughest business lesson you learnt?
It is the importance of protecting myself and my work. Early on, I was often too trusting, believing that a gentleman’s handshake was enough to seal an agreement. Unfortunately, I’ve learned that in this industry, not everyone values integrity in the same way. As a creative, it’s easy to get swept up in the excitement of collaboration—meeting new people, exchanging ideas, and bringing projects to life. However, I’ve come to understand that clear contracts and defined agreements are essential to safeguarding both my work and my business.
What business principles do you live by?
My business principles are deeply rooted in authenticity, sustainability, and quality.
1. Authenticity and storytelling – My brand has always been about storytelling—sharing the history and significance of the Basotho blanket, my personal journey, and the cultural narratives that shape my designs. This approach not only preserves traditions but also connects people to something meaningful.
2. Sustainability through heritage – In telling these stories, we’ve found a sustainable way to continue the culture of wearing Basotho blankets, ensuring that these traditions remain relevant for generations to come.
3. Ethical Sourcing and Production – We are intentional about where and how we source our materials, from the Basotho blankets to the beautifully handcrafted hats. Supporting local artisans and ethical supply chains is a core part of our business.
4. Quality Over Mass Production – We are not a fast fashion brand. Instead, we cater to a niche market that values timeless, well-crafted pieces designed to last a lifetime. Our focus is on creating garments with longevity rather than mass-producing disposable fashion.
5. Minimising Waste – I don’t believe in waste. We carefully manage production to ensure that resources are used efficiently, aligning with our commitment to responsible fashion.
How has the business of fashion evolved since you started and how has that impacted what you offer?
When I first launched my brand, Facebook played a crucial role in helping us reach our customers organically. At the time, we were trying to get our designs into boutique stores that aligned with our luxury profile, but many saw our work with Basotho blankets as too bold, too bright, and too African for their shelves. Facebook allowed us to connect directly with customers who appreciated and valued our designs, giving us visibility outside of traditional retail spaces. However, social media has changed dramatically. Platforms like TikTok and Instagram Reels have shifted from organic engagement to pay-to-play advertising spaces. It’s no longer just about connecting with people; now, visibility is largely driven by algorithms, paid promotions, and influencer collaborations. If a brand isn’t adapting—creating viral content or using influencers—it becomes harder to gain traction. For me, the biggest shift has been the loss of organic engagement. In the early days of Facebook, businesses could market directly to audiences without relying on paid ads. Now, social media feels like one big advertising board, where visibility often depends on sponsorships, paid boosts, and trend-driven content. This change has forced us to rethink how we market our designs, ensuring that we stay authentic while adapting to new digital strategies.
What are the 3 things every entrepreneur needs to survive business?
Passion and purpose. You need to have heart and a deep passion for what you’re doing. It’s that inner drive. The “why” behind your business, that keeps you going even when challenges arise. Passion fuels perseverance and gives meaning to your work.
Resilience and stubbornness so that you can create something truly impactful. If you’re simply following the rules, that’s one thing—but if you want to change the game, push boundaries, and challenge the status quo, you must be willing to stand your ground and keep pushing forward, even when others don’t see your vision.
A strong support system because entrepreneurship can be lonely, and having someone in your corner—a mentor, a friend, a partner, or a cheerleader—makes all the difference. No one builds success alone; having a solid support system is just as important as having a great business idea.
How has your faith influenced your decision making?
It plays a central role in my decision-making. I often say that God is the other business partner in my company. There are moments in business where things don’t go as planned—doors that were supposed to open remain closed, while unexpected opportunities arise. In those times, I lean into my faith, trusting that God has a plan and a purpose for me. I believe that the gift I have was given to me for a reason, and that gives me confidence to keep moving forward, even when challenges arise. My guiding principle has always been: “Do your best, and God does the rest.” This mindset keeps me grounded, reminding me that while I am responsible for putting in the work, there is a bigger plan at play that I trust completely.
What have been the challenges and opportunities of running Thabo Makhetha and operating from Cape Town?
One of the biggest challenges of moving to Cape Town and running Thabo Makhetha here has definitely been the cost of rent. At one point, I had to convert my home into a workspace to house my studio. However, this challenge led to a great opportunity—we have since moved into SvenMill, an incredible textile mill that now produces my Dikeledi woven patterns. This collaboration has allowed us to further develop our work in textile innovation, bringing our designs to life in a new and exciting way. Cape Town has also offered incredible platforms for exposure. Design Indaba and the Cape Town Fashion Council were instrumental in my early days. I used to travel from Port Elizabeth (now Gqeberha) to showcase on their platforms, which gave me the opportunity to share my story with an audience that embraced it. This support led to international opportunities, like showing on the Vancouver Fashion Week runway.
Another challenge I faced was the business side of fashion. Coming from a design background, I was initially told, “You’re not a businessperson.” That led me to pursue business courses and expand my knowledge beyond fashion design. At times, there was also the feeling of not having studied enough or needing to validate my work further. But through spaces like IZIKO South African Museums and academic circles, I’ve been able to have meaningful discussions with professors and scholars about Basotho culture, the historical significance of the blankets, and the storytelling within my designs.
Now, with Kobo Table Talks, we are creating a space where these conversations can happen on a larger scale. Collaborating with institutions like IZIKO South African Museums and the Centre for African Studies at UCT, which have globally recognised platforms, allows us to bridge the gap between fashion, heritage, and academia. This initiative is an incredible opportunity to not only share knowledge but also learn from experts in different fields, creating a dialogue that strengthens the cultural and historical impact of African fashion.
What has been your lowest point in business and your highest?
The lowest point in my business was when I couldn’t do any business at all in 2020, not only because of the impact of COVID-19, but also due to my personal health challenges. I had just given birth to my youngest child and faced serious complications that landed me in the emergency room three times and in high-care ICU for an extended period. Coming back from that experience was incredibly difficult—facing life-and-death moments makes you question everything, including your purpose and direction. Trying to rebuild my business while recovering was a debilitating experience, but I kept pushing forward.
One of my highest points came last year when I was honoured by Lesotho’s Ministry of Tourism, Sports, and Culture for my contribution to putting Lesotho and Basotho on an international level through my work. On top of that, I was also recognized by the African Women’s Innovation and Entrepreneurship Forum (AWIEF) for my impact in the creative industry. These two awards were incredibly meaningful because they acknowledged not just my fashion work, but also the cultural and economic impact of my brand. They hold deep meaning for me, especially considering the journey I’ve been on since 2020.
To be recognized by my home country, Lesotho, is incredibly special. Even though I left when I was very young, being acknowledged for my work by the very place where my roots lie was a deeply emotional and affirming moment. And then, within four weeks of that, to receive a continental recognition from AWIEF—an organization that celebrates women innovators and entrepreneurs across Africa—was equally powerful. It felt like a moment where my work was not only seen but truly valued, both at home and across the continent. The timing of it all, the way these two awards came back-to-back, made it feel even more significant. It’s difficult to put into words, but these recognitions reaffirmed my purpose, resilience, and impact in the creative industry.
What are your projections for the future?
Looking ahead, I envision a Thabo Makhetha Experience Store—a space where people can immerse themselves in my creative world. As a designer, I thrive on experimenting with new ideas and fresh applications of the Basotho blanket and other heritage-inspired elements. This store wouldn’t just be about retail; it would be a curated cultural and artistic experience where people can interact with the essence of my work in a tangible way.
Another key focus is integrating technology into how we present our garments. Seeing how younger generations engage with digital platforms, I recognise the importance of meeting them where they are. This means exploring digital fashion, tech-driven storytelling, and innovative retail experiences that merge tradition with modern engagement.
On the business front, we are actively building a strong, dynamic team, bringing in young, passionate individuals who are eager to learn, grow, and contribute to something meaningful. There is a renewed energy in youth today, a strong desire to reconnect with their culture and identity, and I see that reflected in the people who have joined my team. It’s exciting to mentor and empower them while also strengthening the Thabo Makhetha brand.
For myself, I see a shift toward a more strategic and managerial role, allowing me to step back from the daily operations and focus on speaking, teaching, and inspiring. I want to engage in meaningful conversations, mentorship, and thought leadership, ensuring that my work continues to have a lasting impact beyond fashion. Additionally, I’m eager to explore collaborations beyond traditional fashion, challenging myself in spaces that intersect with design but push me to think differently. I see a future where the Thabo Makhetha brand expands beyond garments, becoming a global storytelling platform that continues to celebrate heritage, craftsmanship, and innovation.
