South Africa’s clothing and textile sector is fighting a battle it never saw coming from ultra-fast fashion apps such as SHEIN, AliExpress and Temu.
These ultra-fast fashion platforms are delivering R30 tops and R80 dresses straight to consumers’ doorsteps, bypassing traditional retail and undercutting local producers. For township-based seamstresses, small design houses, and even mid-sized manufacturers, every cheap purchase from these apps is a lost sale.
Reuters reported in August that SHEIN and Temu captured 3.6% of South Africa’s retail clothing, textile, footwear and leather (CTFL) market in 2024, generating about R7.3 billion in sales. Together, they now control 37.1% of South Africa’s fashion e-commerce, with SHEIN alone accounting for 28% of women’s fashion sold online. For young, price sensitive South Africans, the allure of instant, cheap fashion is hard to resist.
Unlike traditional retailers, SHEIN, AliExpress, and Temu thrive on direct-to-consumer e-commerce. With TikTok influencers and Instagram ads driving sales, these platforms tap into a young, price-conscious market.
The affordability argument is undeniable.
With unemployment at 33% and household budgets squeezed, many families must choose between food, transport, and clothing. But every purchase from overseas apps is a lost sale for a local SMME.
Industry leaders and policymakers are sounding the alarm.
At the Cape Clothing & Textile Cluster (CCTC) Annual General Meeting in June 2025, Deputy Minister Andrew Whitfield warned that “cheap imports, particularly from Asia, have flooded the market, undermining local manufacturers and contributing to job losses.”
Every bargain top bought online is a lost sale for township sewing co-ops, school-uniform makers, and emerging designers. The trend also undermines the Retail-Clothing, Textile, Footwear and Leather (R-CTFL) Master Plan, which aims to boost local market share to 65% by 2030.
The Cape Clothing & Textile Cluster (CCTC) plays a key role in supporting local SMMEs.
Courtney Grant, Principal Consultant at BMA and Chief Facilitator of both the Cape and KwaZulu-Natal clusters, shared concerns.
“I’m deeply concerned about the rise of offshore online retail. The main concern from industry has been they’re taking significant market share and the playing field isn’t even,” Grant said.
She also noted that while recent legislative changes have addressed duty avoidance, concerns persist about market access without local sourcing obligations.
“Despite challenges, the cluster maintains a strong focus on technological advancement and global best practices,” Grant reflected.
SMEs are bearing the brunt of this competition. Already weighed down by port delays, rising costs, and limited technology, they cannot absorb price shocks as easily as big retailers. Many are shifting to niche segments such as bridal garments, cultural wear, and school uniforms. But the everyday fashion market which is the bread and butter of the sector — is slipping away.
Emerging designers also fear for their creative survival.
At the Take a Stand March earlier this year, local fashion houses accused global apps of duplicating their designs and selling them for less.
Sindisiwe Masemola, who presented at the Soweto Fashion Week, explained that she is aiming to grow her brand and have a signature style that people can identify.
“But competing with cheap imports makes it harder for us to reach more people,” Masemola stressed.
For many, survival now depends on storytelling, heritage, and authenticity.
Designers are selling not just clothes, but identity and pride — something offshore platforms cannot replicate.
As designer Shaldon Kopman of Naked Ape said at SA Fashion Week: “Each piece in Urban Camo carries the DNA of our land. It’s fashion made with the earth, not just inspired by it.”
CCTC programmes like Origin8, which helps small firms scale up to supply larger retailers, and Project Present, which improves factory productivity, are also supporting SMEs in adapting to the new competitive landscape.
Policy drivers and consumers both have roles to play.
In Parliament, EFF MP Mathapelo Siwisa warned about cheap imports.
“Growing global competition with cheap imports and the failure to have protective industrial policy has led to the killing of the local industry,” Siwisa said.
Proudly SA CEO Eustace Mashimbye stressed that buying local is about more than patriotism as it helps retain jobs, increase demand for local products, and potentially create new opportunities.
Designer Craig Jacobs of Fundudzi also added that fakes kill local brands.
Azwi@vutivibusiness.co.za
